South Col / Cwm (Irhzer n’Ikhibi Janoub)
In summer conditions there are a number of tracks, which all seem to eventually lead to the top. From the headwall before Tizi-n-Toubkal is the point of most confusion, with tracks going everywhere. However, the peak is obvious in clear conditions – use your common sense and you should make it OK. Toubkal is well known for it’s scree slopes. However, over the years, with more and more people climbing the mountain, the scree slopes seem less atrocious than they used to be. In winter conditions, you may end up breaking the trail. If so, get as early a start as you can, like many alpine areas, the snow will soften later in the day making progress harder.
Setting off from the Neltner hut, cross the stream and head east for the obvious hanging valley. From the base of the steep climb there is usually a path crossing from right to left ascending the scree and rocks to gain the valley properly. Follow the valley bottom up, keeping close to the stream bed, ascending all the time until you reach the headwall of the valley. Climb this, exiting onto the slightly less steep area immediately below Tizi-n-Toubkal. After gaining the Tizi, follow the ridgeline NE. The path narrows and steepens, passing crags until the summit plateau becomes visible. Continue on to the iron pyramid. In strong winds beware of being blown off the cliff faces on the ridgeline and summit plateau.
Time to ascend: 3-5 hrs. Descent: 2-3 hrs (Depending on conditions)
GPS point of summit – N31 03.667 W7 54.928