North Col / Cwm (Irhzer n’Ikhibi Shamel)

Toubkal’s north col / cwm route is far more interesting than than the south col route. It also benefits from having fewer people on it. People that climb the north col route, will normally descend by the south col route. This makes a great day out with the advantage of not covering ground already seen.


Start by descending the main valley northwards for a short period. As soon as possible cross the stream and start a rising traverse. After a short time the north col / cwm should begin to be visible, head up to this over the easiest looking ground. Gain the valley properly and keep climbing steeply, passing several rock bands. Look out for parts of a crashed plane en-route. Keep left until you get to the headwall, ascend this by the obvious exit. Head for the col and enjoy the great views. Follow the rocky ridge south which steepens, finally exiting on the summit plateau.